The Art and Soul of Baking

Happy New Year - Ring It In Sweetly, and Have Some Baking Fun

I got two pieces of baking equipment for Christmas this year. You might think I have all the equipment in the world at my disposal, but I continually edit to keep it all from piling up around me. At one point, my kitchen gear took up not only my kitchen and an adjacent closet, but half the garage as well! I love all the fun pans and gadgets, but a few years ago, in an effort to make room for the car, I pleaded with my family, “no more equipment!” Then I pared back to the equipment I deemed essential for my kitchen. Much of the excess was given to baking students eager to fill their kitchens, and some was donated to charity. I could even park the car in the garage! But recently, I found myself positively wistful for some new equipment or decorating tools. So I was both surprised and elated when I received two pieces of equipment for the holidays…an Ebelskiver pan and a Giant Cupcake Pan.

The giant cupcake is a party in a pan. Huge, with a full-on wink toward the little individual versions (isn’t that the point of a cupcake?), this is definitely centerpiece material. The pan has two compartments, one for the cone-like top of the cupcake, and the other for the fluted bottom portion. Once cooled, you stack them, gluing them together with icing. Kids and adults alike go crazy for its damn-the-diet, behemoth appearance, and I have to admit, it sure is cute. The only drawback is that the top of the cake looks like a mound of frosting, which begs the question – where does the real (Rebecca, italics “real”) dome of frosting go? Because, let’s face it, frosting is at least half the reason we eat cupcakes. If you frost only the outside of the giant cupcake, there’s just not enough of the gooey stuff to be satisfying. But if you slice each piece of the cake in two and fill them with frosting, then finish the outside with a thin layer of frosting, you get a moist, 4-layer, towering, Texas-size cupcake that will satisfy everyone.

I’ve included the Classic Yellow Layer Cake recipe from the book below that is perfect for layer cakes (or even standard-size cupcakes), and it works very well in the giant cupcake pan. You’ll need to double the recipe for enough batter to fill the giant cupcake pan – and because there are a couple of pan sizes out there, take care to only fill the pan 2/3 full. Any excess batter can be used for small cupcakes or a cake on the side. The deep giant cupcake pan will take longer to bake than the shallow cake pans of the recipe, so be sure to test with a toothpick and look for visual clues instead of relying on the baking time included in the recipe.

When I saw the ebelskiver pan, it took me right back to childhood and family visits to Solvang in central California, a Disney-esque version of a Danish city, replete with, thatch-roofed buildings, pricey boutiques, and lots and lots of ebelskivers and petit fours. I’m quite sure they served other things in the city as well, but even before my pastry career began, I was focused on the sweets. Ebelskivers are small balls of light dough surrounding a center of jam. Served warm from the pan and showered with powdered sugar, they are a true delight. I’d never thought to make them at home, but suddenly I had not only a craving, but also just the pan for the job. I jumped up, made my favorite pancake batter, got out some fabulous Italian sour cherry jam (another lovely gift), and tried out the pan then and there. Yum! They were better than anything I’d ever eaten in Solvang. And it was so fun! Guess what we’re having New Year’s morning? As I make my new year’s resolutions for 2009, having fun in the kitchen is definitely near the top of the list. I hope it’s on yours as well. Keep on baking!

This is my final posting for this fall-into-winter baking blog that celebrates the world of pastry and the book The Art and Soul of Baking. The postings will be up for quite a while to come, so check back when you need a recipe, or want to read up on topics or specific postings that you’ve missed. And if you know kids who enjoy baking, or want to learn, look for another great book from myself and Sur La Table on kids baking due out next fall. It'll have some dynamite recipes and step-by-step instructions for the next generation of bakers. It’s been a pleasure sharing my love of baking with you. Keep the comments and questions coming. You can contact me at cindy (at) cindymushet (dot) com. Best wishes to everyone for a happy and treat-filled new year!

More Happy New Year ideas and recipes follow after the jump

Cold Nights, Hot Chocolate

Winter is definitely here, even in Los Angeles. Oh, we still have plenty of sunshine, but at night the temperature can dip surprisingly low (well, it sure feels low). Whether winter means 40F. or -40F., when bone-chilling cold comes around, it’s time for some deeply warming food and drink. And nothing says “warmth” like chocolate.

Winter brings out the chocoholic in me. The darker the chocolate, the better. If it’s bittersweet and hot, I’m there, whether it’s a steaming bowl of hot chocolate or a meltingly warm dessert like molten center chocolate cake, chocolate bread pudding, or brownies still warm in the pan. The ultimate in hot chocolate desserts is the ethereal soufflé – hands-down my favorite. Simple to prepare, as desserts go, yet sublimely elegant. And even a small, individual portion of soufflé is incredibly satisfying.

Whenever I mention chocolate soufflé, my guests gasp as though I’ve prepared some miracle. They seem to think a soufflé is labor intensive, mysterious, and way too fragile. But the truth is…if you can whip egg whites and melt dark chocolate, you’re nearly there. The most time-consuming part of chocolate soufflé is preparing the dishes. And the best part of all – and what makes it perfect for entertaining – is that chocolate soufflés can be prepared up to a day ahead, kept in the refrigerator until the dinner dishes are cleared, then simply popped in the oven to bake while you relax. Dessert doesn’t get much better than that!

Raspberry Souffles with Hidden Chocolate Truffles

The best way to eat soufflé is in a dish that’s all-to-yourself. I like to make it in individual portions so everyone gets their own. I’ve made chocolate soufflés in dishes ranging from the classic ribbed white dishes (or ramekins) to coffee cups, demitasse cups, custard cups, and more. As long as the vehicle has straight sides to guide the soufflé upward, it will crown beautifully. And individual desserts is bake quickly, so you can enjoy them sooner. If I end up with an extra dish or two full of batter, I simply wrap in plastic and freeze, then bake another day (or night, when it’s ‘mom’s movie time’).

The recipe below gives you lots of guidance on making a sensuously satisfying soufflé. If you’re a visual learner, or just want a bit more direction, be sure to check out the video of me making chocolate soufflé in the cookbook club section (registration is free) of Gourmet.com. And while custard sauce (recipe below) is the classic accompaniment, whipped cream is also a great option. Or, try my favorite - a miniature scoop of ice cream (I love coffee) dropped right into the center of the hot souffle. The ice cream melts halfway, creating a lovely blend of liquid custard sauce and bracingly cold ice cream against the hot chocolate. Oh yeah. Choose a rich, dark chocolate, and this dessert will warm your soul on a cold winter’s night.

More Cold Nights, Hot Chocolate ideas and recipes follow after the jump