The Art and Soul of Baking

Cranberries Mean Fall

Cranberries, those cheery, red harbingers of fall, are a boon to pastry chefs and bakers all across the country this time of year. Their color is a swath of brilliance against the browns and creams of the pastry kitchen, and their tart, vibrant flavor enlivens and contrasts with the sweet fruits, earthy nuts, and silken chocolates of fall.

Cranberries are a perfect partner to apples, pears and quince, and are equally at home with chocolate. And while white chocolate may seem a natural dance partner, soft and sweet against the acidic fruit, dark chocolate may come as a surprise. The first time I heard of bittersweet chocolate and cranberries, I cringed at the combination. How could bitter and tart blend harmoniously? But a taste of them together was all I needed to convince me of their beautiful compatibility. The key to desserts with cranberries is a gentle play of acidic against sweet. Their presence livens up what might be a lovable, yet expected dessert. For instance, apple crisp is a bit more fun with some cranberries thrown in, and apple pie is all the better with a bright bit of red tucked here and there. Chocolate and cranberry mousses layered together are not just visually striking, but also deeply vibrant on the tongue. There’s no better time than now to include cranberries in dessert, for as we enjoy the richer, heartier foods we crave in cold weather, it’s nice to follow them up with a bright punch of flavor. And cranberries give it the old one-two finish.

Cranberries are a new-world fruit, enjoyed by Native Americans long before the pilgrims arrived. They are grown on great bogs in the northeast, floating like giant red rafts, then scooped off the surface for harvest. They are sturdy and keep well in the refrigerator for a month or two (and nearly forever in the freezer), so I always buy an extra bag or two at the market. And while their fresh presence is what I crave right now, the dried version is a wonderful trick to have up the baker’s sleeve, for their clean flavor is a welcome addition to cookie doughs (I love them in oatmeal cookies), sweet yeast breads, muffins and scones, even cake batters. Today, though, I’d like to offer you a tart full of fresh cranberries, topped by a sweet crumble mixture. Served warm, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream melting alongside, it’s just the ticket for a night by the fire. Don’t you just love fall?

More Cranberries Mean Fall ideas and recipes follow after the jump

All-American Apple Pie

Fall is officially here – the air is crisp, the leaves are turning, and apples abound. It’s time for apple pie. I never want to rush the first apple pie of the season. Summer fruits continue to show up in the markets around southern California until well into October, and I try to prolong the summer pie season as long as possible, making those last few peach, plum and blackberry pies. But I can’t resist any longer.

For the first apple pie of the year, I like to take my time on a cool Saturday morning. First I make the pie dough. Buttery, flaky pie dough is the perfect match for crisp, tart apples, and if you’ve never made it before, be sure to read my recent posting on de-mystifying this wonderful type of pastry. I always make an extra batch or two – it’s just as easy to make twice the recipe when you’re in the mood, and a stash in the freezer saves some time another day when baking inspiration strikes. I roll out the dough rounds and refrigerate them, have a cup of tea, then start peeling apples.

Everyone always wants to know which apples are best for pie. I have basically two answers. First, if you’re shopping in the supermarket, choose Granny Smith apples, which are reliably tart and firm-fleshed. Make sure they are new-crop apples, and not left over from last year, which leaves them mealy on the inside. The softer, sweeter apples like Gala and Red Delicious often lose their shape in the oven, resulting in applesauce pie. Second, if you’re shopping at the farmer’s market or a local fruit stand, ask for their advice. There are many varieties beyond the 6 to 10 you can find at the supermarket, and locally grown apples would be a much better choice than those flown in from around the world. The farmers know which ones are “pie” apples and which ones are “eating” apples and will happily give you advice, along with a sample.

Keep an open mind when confronted with odd-looking apples with strange names, for many of the old-fashioned apples are much more delicious than the picture perfect store-bought specimens. There are hundreds of these “antique” or heirloom apple varieties waiting to be discovered, and they vary across the country according to climate, light intensity and genetics. What’s good in California may not be good in Illinois. And what’s good when ripe may not be good two weeks later (heat and over-maturity can cause a mealy texture). Look for names like Spitzenburg, Northern Spy, Gravenstein, Pink Pearl, Hudson’s Golden Gem, Empire, Sierra Beauty, Roxbury Russet, Ashmead’s Kernel, and Stayman Winesap to name just a few of my favorites. Every county where apples grow will have several, if not dozens, of heirloom varieties, and they are well worth searching out for they offer a flavor of our past, and a pie made with them links us to our colonial roots – especially meaningful as we draw near to Thanksgiving. Here is my version of the All American Apple Pie.

More All-American Apple Pie ideas and recipes follow after the jump