Pie Crust Demystified

“Teach me to make pie crust!” my students in baking class wail. And it’s true, crisp flaky pie dough is one of the holy grails for anyone who loves to bake. It took me years to get comfortable with flaky dough, mostly because I came to it so completely intimidated.

There were all those rules that were just vague enough to be dangerous:

“Don’t add too much water to the dough” – but how much is too much?

“Don’t use too much flour to roll out the dough” – so less must be better, right?

“You have to use shortening if you want flaky dough” – no one ever made decent flaky dough before man invented hydrogenated vegetable oil?

“Don’t overwork the dough” – so I should barely combine it?

“Roll the dough up and over the rolling pin, then unroll it over the pan” – huh?

Here’s the truth: Delicious, golden brown, flaky pie dough is absolutely within your reach, even on the first or second try. In fact, it’s not even that difficult. You just need to know the ground rules and understand how this dough works. And don’t stress about perfection - its pie dough, not world peace for goodness sake. Even if your dough is less than perfect, a homemade pie served warm from the oven with plenty of ice cream is light years beyond anything you can buy at the store.

Types of Pie Dough

To begin, understand that there are 2 kinds of pie dough – flaky and mealy. You can even use the exact same recipe to make both types of dough. The difference is that flaky dough has larger pieces of butter, while the butter pieces in mealy dough are so small that they nearly blend into the flour. These differences in butter size translate directly to the texture of each crust – flaky dough is, well, flaky and just the tiniest bit chewy, while mealy dough is very tender, and crumbles when you cut it.

Home bakers (and, ahem, even some professionals) start out to make flaky dough, and make mealy dough by accident when the “cut-in” portion of the preparation goes too far and their dough is speckled with teensy, tiny butter specks, rather than the larger pieces needed. This often occurs if you make your pie dough start to finish in a food processor, or simply get carried away with a pastry blender. It is not a tragedy – mealy dough is perfectly delicious and usable in the same applications as flaky dough. It’s just not flaky. Let’s explore flaky further.

The Cut-In Method

Flaky dough is an example of the cut-in method of mixing. All the dry ingredients are mixed together (flour, sugar, salt), then cold butter is added and cut into smaller and smaller pieces using your fingertips, a pastry blender, the food processor, or the paddle attachment of the mixer. The key is to keep the butter cold during this process, for if it gets soft and squishy, it will blend into the flour, rather than remaining in separate, cold, pieces. Once the largest butter pieces are the size of green peas, water is added to the mixture. If the butter pieces are too large, they will simply melt into a pool of grease in the oven, so keep the size of a green pea in mind. Once water is added, it blends with the flour to form a dough, trapping the individual butter pieces within. When the dough is rolled out, the butter pieces flatten. When the dough is baked at a high temperature, the structure sets around the butter, then as those pieces melt, an empty space is left in the dough – this is a flake.

If by accident, the butter melts first, there are no chilled “spacers” in the dough to hold it apart as it sets. The dough simply collapses upon the melted butter, and you get a greasy crust without flakes.. So your mantra with flaky dough is “cold butter, cold butter, cold…” If, at any point in the mixing process, you feel that the butter is getting warm, stop immediately, cover it with plastic and refrigerate for 15 to 30 minutes, or until cold and firm again. Then pick up where you left off.

Flaky dough consists of just a few ingredients. Here is a brief overview of what each ingredient contributes to the final dough.

Flour Creates Structure

I always use unbleached all purpose flour for pie dough, for it contains just the right amount of protein to create a gluten structure strong enough to hold it’s shape against a moist filling. I especially like Gold Medal and King Arthur brands. Since King Arthur is not available in every market, I test every recipe with Gold Medal unbleached all purpose flour. Different flours – and the varying amounts of protein within those flours – absorb differing amounts of water, which is why the water added is always slightly variable. Low protein flours (such as cake and pastry and bleached all purpose flours) are not able to absorb the same amount of liquid as higher protein flours (such as unbleached all purpose and bread flours).

This can cause real problems when you follow a recipe and don’t know what type of flour the author used. For instance, if you make the recipe below using bleached all purpose flour, you’ll end up with a wet dough, since it won’t be able to absorb as much water as unbleached flour. Even when you know the flour, the amount of liquid may vary from day to day, depending upon the time of year and humidity in the flour, so you’ll need to use the test described below to see whether you have enough liquid.

Butter Adds Tenderness and Flavor

Butter not only adds the best flavor possible to your dough, it also browns and crisps the crust better than other fats. Some people swear by shortening, and certainly it melts at a much higher temperature than butter, which means that it holds its shape longer in the oven, allowing extra time for the structure to set around the fat and create flakes. I won’t use shortening, for both health and flavor reasons. If I’m going to take the time to make something from scratch, why not give it the best flavor? In my world, natural is better, and flavor rules. The reality is that good technique with butter will produce a crust far beyond any made with shortening. Just be sure to keep the butter cold while working, and chill the crust before baking, and you’ll be just fine.

Water Brings It Together

Water blends with the flour, activating its proteins and helping to create the gluten strands necessary for proper structure. Most recipes call for ice water because cold water helps to keep the butter firm. Never add the ice cubes from the water into the dough.

Always begin with the lowest measurement of water first, then test the dough using the method described below, adding more if needed, about a teaspoon or two at a time, until the dough is finished. Too much water can aid in excessive gluten development (causing tough dough), and is a cause of shrinkage in the oven (as the dough bakes, the water evaporates and the dough shrinks down in the pan). Too little water leaves you with a dry, dusty dough that breaks apart when you roll it. Don’t be afraid to use more or less than the recipe calls for – every flour is slightly different – and use the test below to determine when you’re done. Keep in mind that a recipe is only a guide – not a commandment.

Testing For Moistness

Once you add the water, stir and “fluff” the mixture until the water is evenly absorbed. It will still look dry. Grab a handful of shaggy crumbs and clumps and squeeze them firmly in your first. When you open your hand, they should hold together in a moist, but not gooey, mass – it should be lightly tacky, like tape, but come away easily from your fingers.

If the mixture is too dry, add some more water, and then test again. If it’s a wet mess, there is little recourse but to begin again. Adding more flour will throw off the balance of ingredients, and will likely result in an overworked, tough dough. Once you’ve got enough water, dump the mixture onto a work surface, then knead and squeeze it 4 to 6 times, or until it comes together into a cohesive dough. It’s not bread dough, so don’t knead forever, but if it takes you 7 or 8 gentle squeezes or kneads, don’t worry about it.

Chilling Out Is Key

Flatten the dough into a ½-inch thick round disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 30 minutes. If you are making a double-crusted pie, be sure to divide the dough and form two separate disks before chilling. Thirty minutes in the refrigerator gives the dough time to finish hydrating, the gluten time to relax, and the butter time to chill down completely. Don’t skip this step. If the dough has been chilled longer than 30 minutes, it can become too firm to roll. You should be able to gently bend the dough without it cracking. If it cracks, let it sit at room temperature for 10 to 20 minutes (depending on the thickness), until it is cool but malleable.

Rolling The Dough

After 30 minutes of chilling time, dust your table generously with flour and set the dough in the center. I know, you’ve been told not to use too much flour, but I see far more problems created by lack of flour (dough sticking to the counter and ripping, etc.), than with flour. As long as your dough is cold, it won’t absorb any of the flour. And at the end, you simply brush away any excess flour before transferring the dough to your pie or tart pan.

To roll a circle, think of your dough as a clock face, with 12:00 at the top. Roll away from yourself and then back a couple of times, then turn the dough so that 2:00 is now in the 12:00 position. As you roll, always lift the rolling pin at the edge of the dough so you don’t smash the edge into the work surface. Continue to roll, turning the dough in 2-hour increments. Turning the dough keeps it rounded (so you don’t end up with a square), and alerts you immediately if it is sticking to the work surface.

If the dough sticks to the surface, fold the dough back to expose the stuck area, loosen it with a small spatula, then dust with flour, lay the dough back down and keep rolling. You don’t need to roll a perfect circle, as you’ll be trimming the edges once the dough is in the pie pan.

If at any time during the rolling process your butter becomes warm, you’ll need to stop, brush off the flour, transfer the dough to a baking sheet, cover with plastic and refrigerate for 20 to 30 minutes, before you continue rolling.

Getting It Into The Pan

Fold the round of dough into quarters, brushing any excess flour from the top and bottom each time you fold. Put the point of the folded dough in the center of the pie or tart pan and unfold the dough, lifting it slightly as necessary to ease it into the crevices of the pan. Do not stretch or pull the dough; this can cause thin spots, holes and/or shrinkage during baking. If you are making a double batch for a double-crusted pie, keep the rolled-out dough for the top crust flat on a baking sheet in the refrigerator until you have filled the pie shell.

Finishing The Edge

For a single-crust pie, use a pair of kitchen scissors to trim the dough so it overhangs the edge of the pan by 1 inch. Fold the overhanging dough under all around the pan edge, then crimp or form a decorative border.

For a double-crust pie, trim the bottom dough so it is even with the rim of the pie pan. Spoon the filling into the pie shell. Top with the remaining round of dough (folding and unfolding it as described above) and trim the dough so it overhangs the edge of the pan by 1 inch. Fold this overhang under the bottom crust around the pan edge, then crimp or form a decorative border.

To flute the edges, uses the first two fingers of your right hand on the inside and a knuckle of your left hand on the outside and press firmly to form a pattern. Or, simply press the edges together with the tines of a fork.

Always remember to chill the pie shell before baking. The flaky pie dough recipe below will walk you through the process so you can make the crust of your dreams.

FLAKY PIE DOUGH

Makes 1 (9- or 10-inch) pie shell

Many bakers are so intimidated by the idea of making flaky pie crust that they either settle for the prepared dough from the grocery store or don’t make pie at all. But, like all baking, pie crust is quite straightforward once you know how the ingredients work together. Take a deep breath and follow the steps below for a beautifully crisp, golden brown, flaky pie crust. This recipe doesn’t call for shortening, as the flavor, aroma, and color of an all-butter crust can’t be beat. The drawback to butter is that it can soften quickly at room temperature, which is why it’s best to use the food processor to ensure great results every time.

Equipment: Small Measuring Cup, Food Processor Fitted with a Metal Blade, Large Bowl, Rolling Pin, Pastry Brush, 9- or 10-inch Pie or Tart Pan, Kitchen Scissors

• 1 stick (4 ounces) cold unsalted
• butter, cut into ½-inch pieces
• 3 to 4 tablespoons cold water
• 1¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1½ teaspoons sugar (omit for a savory crust)
• ¼ teaspoon salt

1. Place the butter pieces in a bowl or on a plate and freeze for at least 20 minutes. Refrigerate the water in a small measuring cup until needed.
2. Mix the dough: Place the flour, sugar, and salt in the bowl of the food processor. Process for 10 seconds to blend the ingredients. Add the frozen butter pieces and pulse 6 to 10 times (in 1-second bursts), until the butter and flour mixture looks like crushed crackers and peas.
3. Immediately transfer the butter-flour mixture to the large bowl. Sprinkle a tablespoon of the cold water over the mixture and “fluff” it in, then add another, and another, until 3 tablespoons have been added. Continue to fluff and stir 10 or 12 times. It will not be a cohesive dough at this point but a bowl of shaggy crumbs and clumps of dough. Before bringing the dough together, you need to test it for the correct moisture content. Take a handful of the mixture and squeeze firmly. Open your hand. If the clump falls apart and looks dry, remove any large, moist clumps from the bowl then add more water, one teaspoon at a time, sprinkling it over the top of the mixture and immediately stirring or mixing it in. Test again before adding any more water. Repeat, if needed. The dough is done when it holds together (even if a few small pieces fall off). If the butter feels soft and squishy, refrigerate before continuing. If the butter is still cold and firm, continue to the next step. (Note: Adding the liquid may also be done on low speed in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment—add three-fourths of the liquid, test for moistness, then add the remaining liquid if needed.)
4. Knead and chill the dough: Turn the dough onto a work surface and knead gently 3 to 6 times. If it won’t come together and looks very dry, return it to the bowl and add another teaspoon or two of water (one at a time), mixing in as above, and try again. Flatten the dough into a 6- or 7-inch disk, wrap in plastic or parchment paper, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. This allows time for the dough to hydrate fully and for the butter to firm up again.
5. Roll the dough: If the dough has been refrigerated for more than 30 minutes, it may be very firm and hard and will crack if you try to roll it. Let it sit on the counter for 10 to 15 minutes until it is malleable but still cold. Dust your work surface generously with flour and set the disk on the flour. Dust the top with flour. Roll, turning the dough, until you’ve got a 14- to 15-inch circle about ¹⁄8 inch thick. If at any point the dough becomes warm and sticky, gently fold it into quarters, unfold it onto a baking sheet and refrigerate for 15 minutes, or until the butter is firm again.
6. If a crack or hole forms while rolling, brush any flour away and patch the area according to the instructions above.
7. Transfer the dough: Fold the dough circle into quarters, brushing off any excess flour as you fold. Put the point of the folded dough in the center of the pie pan, tart pan, or baking sheet and unfold the dough, lifting it slightly as necessary to ease it into the crevices of the pan. Do not stretch or pull the dough, which can cause thin spots, holes, and/or shrinkage during baking.
8. Trim the dough: Use a pair of kitchen scissors to trim the dough so it overhangs the edge of the pan by 1 inch. Fold the overhanging dough under itself around the pan edge, then crimp or form a decorative border. Chill for 30 minutes before baking.

Storing The dough can be wrapped in plastic and refrigerated for up to 2 days, or double-wrapped in plastic, slipped into a freezer bag, and frozen for up to 1 month.

Tools of the Trade:

• Emile Henry® Pie Plates
• Ateco Natural Boar Bristle Round Pastry Brushes
• French_style Rolling Pin
• Shun Bread Knife

Recipes and Photos are reprinted with permission from Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC. The Art and Soul of Baking © copyright 2008 by Sur La Table, Inc.

Comments

[barton]

I like to bake using weights for the ingredients.
What is the weight of the flour in this recipe?
What is a good standard weight to use for 1 cup of Flour (King Arthur all purpose etc..)?

Also- - the instructions for patching a tear or a hole were not very clear to me..
Thanks!

[Rebecca]

The weight of the flour for this recipe which calls for 1 1/4 cups of flour would be 6 1/4 ounces.

The standard weight for 1 cup of flour would be approximately 5 ounces.

[Ted]

Is one surface better to work on than another? Like Granite, or wood, or formica etc.?
Thanks!

[Cindy Mushet]

I have a well-loved maple work table where I roll all my doughs, but truth be told, I've rolled dough on nearly every imaginable kitchen surface. I'd recommend against tile (the grout plays havoc, creating a grid on the dough!) or cement (it tends to grip the dough, rather than letting it extend easily), but have rolled successfully on laminate, marble, stainless steel, granite and more. Marble is wonderful since it stays cool even on hot days, helping to keep your dough cool as well. But in the end, technique is everything - dust generously with flour, make sure the dough is cool but flexible, lift your rolling pin at the edge of the dough, and turn the dough as you roll - follow the rules and you can roll your doughs successfully just about anywhere.